Author Topic: let the fun begin (Read 74296 times)

thumb · « **on:** April 04, 2015, 07:32:47 pm »

The FT arrived Tuesday along with 2 days of hailstone, sleet, rain and high winds. Thursday got to hear it running and have a good look around. Engine sweet no rattles just popping a bit - carb more than likely. Got a oil leak from rocker cover, so that's the first job,after I get rid of all the unwanted stuff- rear guard, lights, air box, seat , tail piece etc. The old rust I've found is on the swing arm where the paints peeled. The rear pipe is shot - been patched in 3 places and baffle rattling .The Y piece is also shot, but the headers are solid.

WTF304 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2015, 11:15:32 pm »

Looks like you got plenty to do, what did that cost in total just to get the bike the way it is ..... I'm sure it wasn't too cheap

thumb · « **Reply #2 on:** April 05, 2015, 12:19:58 pm »

The FT cost £800 ,about 1100 dollars which was a good price the last one i saw for sale was £1400. Got a budget of £1500 start to finish (£800 already spent)
0n order -
xr750 type seat
black bullet indicators
round headlight
y piece for exhaust +bits
and new rear exhaust

thumb · « **Reply #3 on:** April 05, 2015, 03:11:44 pm »

Took the surface rust off the headers, not original - nice stainless steel.
Mate turned up with a 18" wire wheel off CB 750 (model unknown at the moment) fits straight in. only need a spacer for speedo side. Down at his tomorrow looking for the disc.
Also found a exhaust I like - think I'll be getting it

WTF304 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 05, 2015, 08:36:57 pm »

Geez .... i paid 500 $ for my bike, 72 $ on the muffler, 65 $ on a battery, 17 $ on new factory style air filter and yes I'm running the original air box. 379 $ Dennis Kirk order of brake pads/ tires/ flywheel puller/ 16 tooth sprocket/ throttle sleeve/ caliper seal kit/ fork springs/ clutch springs. 11 $ on muffler packing, 10 $ on 2 of the same oil seals ( always good to have a spare), 31 $ on a master cylinder kit, 57 $ on a complete gasket kit ( minus oil seals, don't come with), 31 $ on Mobil 1 oil, 11 $ on electrical solder/ heat shrink/ and weather proof connectors. Another 69 $ for more Dennis Kirk stuff, clutch cable and clutch disc set, 55 $ for new title in my name and 8 $ NY sales tax ( put on bill of sale i paid 100 $). I believe i spent another 247 $ on bars/ grips/ glue/ another caliper seal kit ( for the front caliper)/ bar ends/ ...... couple other things just can't find the receipt plus another 130$ on my new helmet. I'm sure I'm missing something but you get the idea, some of it had to be done, others were " I'm right there might aswell do it" deals, and the rest was because i wanted to.

Just remembered 20 $ on rear shocks from an 82 CB550 nighthawk used but in very good shape and also adjustable.

thumb · « **Reply #5 on:** April 07, 2015, 06:52:04 pm »

New shocks fitted today and made up a new Y piece from my metal stash behind shed. New seat arrived. First fit removed last bracket off frame to let seat sit on frame rails. Looks like a couple of inches will need cutting off back end.. original seat attaching brackets can be used on new seat. Sits nice against edge of tank.
Also dug a cb 900f swingarm out of the box of bits my mate dropped off - a quick measure and it looks like it will fit will be about a inch or so longer than the FTs and will need new shock mounts making. this will allow wider rear wheel and tyre to be used even has the same calliper and mount as the F.T. Most of the mods I'm going to be doing are for "looks" rather than performance. Going to try and use "bolt on" stuff from the 80s era of the F.T.
If I want speed I've got the Hornet 919, and If I want to go crazy I've got the CCM R30 Supermoto. At the age of 51 I should be calming down - I DON'T THINK SO !

wrk2ride_ride2wrk · « **Reply #6 on:** April 07, 2015, 07:58:36 pm »

good stuff

WTF304 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 07, 2015, 10:05:43 pm »

Would like to see that rear seat setup when it's all done, looks good. That rear end might be a bit heavier then you would like it to be, plus the bigger wheels. For what parts you took off and or tossed out, and what you are putting on or replacing with ..... might be a little more then what it was factory. It's only a single and the motor can only handle soo much. Most Japanese cars and bikes of that era were low HP, low curve weight, best handling/suspension available and very VERY ! Reliable

thumperdh · « **Reply #8 on:** April 07, 2015, 11:31:37 pm »

If it were me personally, i would keep the stock FT rear end over the 900 rear end... but that's just me.

Curious to see how this turns out.

ex119x · « **Reply #9 on:** April 07, 2015, 11:32:45 pm »

Just so you know, a 160-17 tire will fit in a stock Ascot swingarm. Any wider than that and the chain line will need to use an offset front sprocket to clear the tire. Even with the 160 rear, you need to use a 520 chain to clear the tire.

thumb · « **Reply #10 on:** April 08, 2015, 08:38:08 am »

Well dropped the rear wheel out and removed shocks and laid the cb900 swingarm more or less on top of the FTs. Yes it would fit but to the eye. it don't look right and is probably twice as heavy. Back in the box of bits it goes which I got for free, need to drop the shocks and rotate one so both collars were the same way round, Also checked swingarm bearings while I had the wheel out. Only a bit of time wasted sat out tinkering in first bit of warm sunshine in the U.K we've had this year.

. Pics to follow later
No pics ! sd card f~*ked in phone

ex119x · « **Reply #11 on:** April 11, 2015, 05:55:27 pm »

This is a 140-17 tire in the stock swingarm on a CBR600F wheel with the 530 chain. You can also fit a 150 -17 tire in there with the same configuration but it is a very tight fit with the 530 chain, a 520 gives a little better clearance.

Here is a shot of a 160-17 on a CBR600F2 wheel. I had to use the 520 chain to have clearance on this set up.

If you use a 150 on this wheel the rim is too wide and the profile of the mounted tire is too flat and you can't get all the way over to the edge.

]

This is an Avon 130-18 on a VF500F rear wheel. The Avon is designed to work on rims as narrow as 2.15" and still maintain a proper profile. Most 130's are not.

I have used a variety of tire and wheel combinations because I don't like the stock ones.

Lefty · « **Reply #12 on:** April 11, 2015, 05:59:17 pm »

Cool cool cool! I love that pipe, there's another Ascot somewhere with the same one, it looks badass.
Looking forward to your build, Lefty.

thumb · « **Reply #13 on:** April 11, 2015, 06:06:07 pm »

Got a bit more done today, made a tray to hold electrics and keep out of sight and fitted a plate between frame rails. The front seat rail has been cut partly and tilted this now sits square underneath fibreglass seat. The rear seat rail has been removed and cut down this will also support new seat. Every things just tacked in place to see if it "works" and looks O.K. The green tape in pics is line up marks, saves having to keep taking tank on and off when lining seat up. I can't do much more on the seat pan till new smaller gel battery, tail tidy and rear light arrive

WTF304 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 11, 2015, 11:56:07 pm »

That headlight cowl/front number plate .... what that come off of ? ..... and that steering damper ... what brand and does that bracket to the frame weld on or were you able to simply but it up ?

ex119x · « **Reply #15 on:** April 12, 2015, 03:31:24 am »

Quote from: WTF304 on April 11, 2015, 11:56:07 pm

That headlight cowl/front number plate .... what that come off of ? ..... and that steering damper ... what brand and does that bracket to the frame weld on or were you able to simply but it up ?

I don't want to threadjack his build thread, but the front numberplate was some NOS pieces that were being liquidated at the Mid-Ohio VMD races a few years ago. It was oem Cannondale. I have seen some like it, it might be UFO. The steering damper is OEM Suzuki GSXR. I grab them off of e-bay whenever I need one for keeping around. I won't spend much on them so I usually find one with a $0 bid and no shipping and bid about max $10 and see if I win. I usually bid on a couple and if I get one great, if not I just look for another. I just like to have at least one in my tool box. I think I have it mounted with a fork tube bracket and with a piece of L shaped steel that goes up under the tank and bolts to that mystery tube under the steering neck. The bracket is 1/4" steel with 1 inch wide and one leg that is about 3-4" long that goes under the tank and the leg that the damper bolts to is about 1.5". I'll look to see if I have a pic somewhere since my bikes are 4000 miles away from where I live most of the year. If so I'll post them up in my race bike thread.

thumb · « **Reply #16 on:** April 19, 2015, 04:45:04 pm »

Got a few more things done over the past week
1. Side panels cut and reshaped - didn't take any pics of this
2. infill piece for tail piece/seat made
3. new exhaust can mounted

1. side panels first cut like the grey/green ft from the various pics recently posted. Looked o.k but not quit to my liking. Out with the masking tape and "French curve" stencils and got the shape I liked - Cut and shaped with trusty power file. The section that sits under the seat was cut back to about 1/4'' and panel fitted to bike, used some fine aluminium mesh cut to shape of panel and held it in place with a couple of drop of Super glue and pulled over top frame rail to create a nice curve and taped in place then fibre glassed over mesh using the tissue matting taking it right over frame rails and let cure. Once cured I marked a line across the fibre glass and cut back to the line. This sits nice under seat unit and holds panel in place without any more fixings .still need a bit of work to finishing off . Will do a step by step on this if anyone's interested in another post
2. Made this up to fill the open end of the seat unit and allow rear light and reg plate to be mounted. Placed seat unit on its end and drew around it to get the shape required and cut out. Found a piece of board larger that shape and covered with kitchen foil and then laid 2 layers of fibre glass/ resin and let cure. Once cured removed from board and placed paper patten on it and marked around it with pen then cut excess fibre glass away and filed and shaped until it fitted in seat/ tail piece. this will be fibre glassed in place from the inside and any gaps filled with "filler/ bondo" and rear light and reg plate fitted to it
3. Exhaust came the other day, beautiful welds and curves, and only 40cm long. This was a easy fit length of exhaust pipe cut longer than required and placed over original pipe and a tack weld to hold in place. New exhaust can placed on top of pipe and marked when everything looked good., cut pipe and refitted end can and made a bracket to support it. job done

thumb · « **Reply #17 on:** April 19, 2015, 04:47:16 pm »

A couple more pics, also found some clocks in shed

thumb · « **Reply #18 on:** April 26, 2015, 06:18:47 pm »

Got the battery box made
Redid the loom - checked of breaks and re taped
Redid the electrics tray and loaded it up
De lugged the frame

thumb · « **Reply #19 on:** May 04, 2015, 04:26:34 pm »

Got a bit more body work done this weekend, got the rear light mounted in the seat unit and extended the sides of the seat unit so the top frame rails can't be seen. This also allows the side panels to "flow" into the seat unit. Got the rear indicators mounted, drilled out original grab rail mounts into top frame rail and will run wiring that way. Used a couple of rubber bungs to blank off frame rails that were cut also fitted a couple of super bright L.E.Ds into bungs and these will be wired into brake light. Fired her up and she sounds sweet with that new tail pipe, but leaking fuel from fuel pipe at carb end ( need I.D of fuel pipe) to replace

Lefty · « **Reply #20 on:** May 04, 2015, 05:29:34 pm »

Looks great, Nice work on the tail piece, I like the tail light mounting also, very trick.
When you say "fuel pipe", are you talking about the fuel line, or the intake? I've never heard that term

Lefty · « **Reply #21 on:** May 04, 2015, 05:35:38 pm »

I'm also curious as to how you mount that seat assy to the frame

thumb · « **Reply #22 on:** May 04, 2015, 06:36:30 pm »

The seat is secured in 2 places, welded a couple of pieces of flat bar onto frame above indicators and also onto the flat bracket where the tank is secured. One of the original seat supports cut and re welded mid section takes some of the weight . The way the battery is mounted under the seat hump supports the seat also (will post a couple more pics)
And yes its fuel line that I need to replace

Lefty · « **Reply #23 on:** May 04, 2015, 07:59:49 pm »

I've got 3/16" on the FT- tight, but it works fine. The next size up would be 1/4"

WTF304 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 12, 2015, 03:20:02 pm »

Looking good ..... keep on plugging away, would love to see the finished results.

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Author Topic: let the fun begin (Read 74296 times)