First Generation Ascots > The Thumper Years: Stock To Lightly Modified

picture of my modified 82

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johnnymot1:
I'll have to look back and verify where I saw that and will share when I do...Seems like it may have been advrider and the guy ran his FT on the track.....He mentioned they were "beefier" forks and had a bigger single front disc superior to the 2 hurricane discs.....I'll have to see if I can track it down to supplant my memory.....

The hurricane front/rear swap sounds and looks nice however and it's a serious consideration for one of my builds of one of the bikes that is "less than original" that I picked up. I have noticed the low sump on the pans, as the 4 I've had to load/unload recently all "catch" where my bike trailer ramp goes onto the rails....

If I can find the comment about the nighthawk forks I will copy and paste/post!

johnnymot1:
Sure you guys may have seen this and it's the Hawk GT front end being talked about here....not the "nighthawk" as I mentioned....

Interesting to someone like me in gathering info, but the front/rear wheel swap of the interceptor sounds like a good deal...

"Mark Hatten:
For front forks, I run Race Tech emulators in Honda Hawk GT forks on my race bike and really like them. However, for me it wasn't the night and day difference that some people seem to experience. I think the stock fork modifications I describe below are the best "bang for the buck" for a street machine. Still, the FT's forks are flimsy with a huge, heavy front wheel, so they're never going to perform all that well.
I ran Progressive Springs in the Ascot forks, and run them in the Hawk forks as well, although some people really don't like them for racing. I may try some Race Tech straight rate springs this year. As for dive problems with the stock forks you can braze up the damping rods. The Ascot suffers from a near total lack of damping, both compression and rebound. Also, sag should be set in the 1.25" to 1.5" range. After doing the above, then you can try increasing the oil volume in the forks, which will help lessen the dive. After that, you might try cutting a coil or two of the "soft" end of the springs (close wound), and replacing that with a preload spacer of additional length. I'll argue against the Hurricane front fork swap and argue for a Hawk GT front end, which is what I have on my Ascot race bike. The entire Hawk front end bolts directly on the Ascot, even using the same bearings. Slide the Ascot triples out, slide the Hawk in. The Hawk has stouter fork tubes (41mm vs. 37mm), it's lighter, has better brakes (one larger disc vs. two smaller discs and calipers -- more unsprung weight. Plus, Hurricanes are well known for discs that heat crack.), and with the Hawk there is no anti-dive crap to remove. Hawk front ends seem pretty easy to find from private parties (Hawk racers replace with F2/F3 mainly for the 3.5" wheel) for between $250 and $400. Jim Davis on the THUMPER list usually has one or knows where to get one. The Hurricane stuff seems harder to find from private parties, and most of the wrecking yards still want $500 and up for just about any complete front end. You can order Ascot tapered steering head bearings for $45.99 from Dennis Kirk. Shipping's free if total order is more than $50. Dennis Kirk - 1-800-328-9280. For rear suspension, I'd try a set of Progressive Suspension 1200 shocks. They're about $150 mail order, complete with springs. Order a set 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than stock for a bit quicker steering and better ground clearance. They also make a 1700 model which have adjustable damping that are about $250 or $300. Add a set of Progressive Suspension front springs and you'll have a great street suspension for a minimal outlay of cash. You can spend more on shocks (Works Performance, $250 to $400, up to White Power and Ohlins at $700-plus), but you really won't see the benefits on the street. I use custom-built alloy-bodied Works Performance shocks on my racebike (Honda FT500). "

J6G1Z:
Ah... The Hawk GT. Yes I recall that swap now. I don't know how easy it is to find those front ends any longer.

A word of advise when buying a front or rear wheel & brake assembly. Pick up an inexpensive thickness gauge: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-thickness-gauge-66319.html 
or a set of micrometers & check the thickness of the brake disks/rotors. Make sure that they are thicker than the minimum thickness that is stamped on the disk. My Hurricane rear disk is less than the stamped minimum thickness & the fronts are getting close. I should probably replace all three disks, but the best pricing that I've found so far is $132 each. That's more than I paid for the complete Hurricane running gear. :'(

Good luck
J.

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