Ascot Forum
Second Generation Ascots => The V-Twin Years: Modified To Full Customs => Topic started by: cdntfindanAscot on August 18, 2013, 02:21:47 pm
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Will you be welcoming other vt500's into the fold too?
I couldnt find an Ascot here in the UK so decided to build my own :)
The progress so far...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79596959/2013-08-14%2016.47.19.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79596959/2013-08-14%2016.47.35.jpg)
Nice clean looking site by the way 8)
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Very cool looking bike!
What was the base model? Looks like an Ascot engine.
I didn't include the Shadows because I don't know anything about them & figured that they already had a few forums to choose from. This forum is intended more for the "Street Tracker" type of bikes.
J.
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Tis indeed an 'Ascot' motor. The bike is /was a 500 shadow, tail end removed and replaced and also extended forward a little to raise the back end of the tank about 4 inches in an attempt to get the bottom of the tank and new seat base in a straight line and parallel to the ground.
pics attached...
as it came out of the van
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=104;image)
in with its stablemate
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=102;image)
the point of no return
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=100;image)
new subframe on and exhaust fabricated which sounds a bit nice and produces fire when cold :o
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=98;image)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FILTDK2OpNI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FILTDK2OpNI)
Gave the frame a coat of primer today so hopefully the frame will painted in the next few days.Then just got to decide on a colour for the tank etc , get some lights, switchgear etc, make some side panels, find an 18inch wheel ....... :D
cheers
Nev
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For some reason your pictures aren't showing up. It would be better if you used the forums picture feature at the bottom of the posting window.
That's an ambitious project & looks good.
J.
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Interested to see how it turns out :)
Keep us posted.
Was interested in using this frame myself to benefit from the potentally lower seat height that this frame will allow.
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Interested to see how it turns out :)
Keep us posted.
Was interested in using this frame myself to benefit from the potentally lower seat height that this frame will allow.
Probably worth pointing out that as well as the seat subframe being different the front fork rake is a bit more kicked out on the shadow frame than on the euro and (i imagine) the ascot - so it will be interesting to see how it handles in the bends ???
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Just slide the fork tubes through the yokes/triples to suit.
The tube length is much greater than the available station travel and wheel clearance to radiator.
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Decisions decisions!
Got a temporary coat of pint on the frame now and trying do decide on side covers. So I got the card and duct tape out but I'm unsure - I think a 'full' triangle side panel may look a touch on the heavy side :-\
Any opinions? Square, oval, triangle, other or naked?
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or oval # board?
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I think that the only way that naked would look good, is if there was only a UNI type of filter showing in the frame triangle. You would need to remove the airbox & hide the battery somehow.
I'm partial to the square number plate look, as that is the most Flat-Tracker looking.
The triangle filled in, with the oval added, looks real good, but I think the oval needs to be bigger, or lowered to match the top of the triangle & cover the top of the shock.
I think this bike has real nice side plates: http://ascot500.com/index.php?topic=13.0
J.
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By the way... What kind of rear-sets/foot-peg assembly are you using?
It looks like it fits real nice. What did it take to make it work?
Thanks
J.
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Have to agree.
With the tank shape it lends itself to having no side panels at all.
You could use a gel battery to be relocated.
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hi J
I DO like the bike you pointed to and esp. the panels, I shall have a play tomorrow. :)
the 'rear sets' are stock cbr600 (1990-ish) front pegs and hangers mounted in the rear peg holes of the shadow frame but dropped a bolt. The holes in the frame and the pegs allllllllmost line up but that would place the pegs a bit high (for me) so made a simple 6 x 1 inch strip of 3mm steel with three holes in, so the top hanger bolt goes in the bottom frame hole.
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=150;image)
gear rods aligned cut and welded together.
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=148;image)
rear hub brake arm turned upside down, brake rod bent to fit and fixed to stock cbr brake pedal. as yet to be tested in anger ;)
(http://ascot500.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=25.0;attach=152;image)
I will eventually try a uni type filter but apparently the vtwins are not too keen on them and take a lot of fettling, so for the mo its stock airbox etc til I get it on the road and fully functional and I'll mess with jetting and filters when I know the bike.
cheers
nev
So i take it gel batteries are smaller than std lead acid ones Dougie?
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That is a real clean mounting strap to mount those rear-sets. Super simple! 8)
J.
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Gel batteries can be mounted on their side which helps give more options as to relocation.
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Sneak Peak, waiting for numberboards...
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That looks Bitchin'!!! 8)
Very cool color scheme. Can't wait to see it with the side panels on.
Keep up the great work!
J.
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Update: IT LIVES!!
Now fully taxed and tested, insured and on the road. All we need now is some sunshine (and one or two tweaks)
Whilst waiting for the numberboards I had a play with a bit of 6mm bar, some mesh and a friends Mig welder and I quite liked the result so got them powder coated (£10 :) ) Hence the mk 23 side panels and front number plate.
Just waiting for my front mudguard to come back from the shop now. Didnt really want one but after a ride on a damp road realise that they're not just for show :o
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Man, That bike turned out sweet!
I have to admit that I didn't think a Shadow was ever going to look that good, but you have surprised me.
What little bugs do you have & how well does she run?
How about a pic of your temperature gauge & other instrumentation?
Great job!
J.
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cheer J
Seems to run just fine, taking it easy as it was mostly in boxes when i bought it so it has unknown reliability, Just the heating issue to look into - which may just be down to the fine tuning of the 'gauge'.
... I dont like the headlight. I have seen a number board with tiny lamps built in which would be on the list if they weren't so darned pricey, and the flush mount lights i can find here to make my own are all too deep, so its a work in progress :)
The original idea was no lights, speedo, mudguards etc but practicality and an inability to insure it for a reasonable cost have put paid to that. I've also just added a tiny bar end mirror for convenience - I'm getting too old for craning my neck round every two minutes :(
I will add some more pics when i take 'em :).
cheers
nev
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Do you have an industrial thermometer, or a meat/candy thermometer that you can stick in the opened filler neck to check the temperature of the coolant while the bike is sitting still & idling, or at various throttle positions? You might have to place a piece of cardboard over the front of the radiator to block the airflow once the fan kicks on. Then you can check & adjust the set points of your digital temperature gauge.
I'm looking forward to seeing & hearing more about the bike as you get to know it better. How's the exhaust sound?
Good luck
J.
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10/10 great build, would ride.
8)
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Headlamp MK2.
Bought a strap on polisport enduro headlamp for the light fitting, a piece of 5mm acrylic from ebay, cut with a router and the top bent over (hot air gun) for the speedo mount, some vinyl from a friend (sign making business) the result is...
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Very clever & very cool! 8)
That bike looks real sharp!
What's going on with the side number plates? Have you settled upon a design yet?
Keep up the great work.
J.
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Very clever & very cool! 8)
That bike looks real sharp!
What's going on with the side number plates? Have you settled upon a design yet?
Keep up the great work.
J.
I have the mesh ones (a few posts up) but after my recent top end rebuild and road testing left the panels off just for convenience and the no panel look is growing on me, albeit a bit messy with the airbox and battery etc on show. After a few more road hours I think I am going to delve into trying out a pod type filter and if that works then will look into your earlier suggestion of the smaller mount anywhere batteries and empty the box/ battery area.
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I happen to be experimenting with using a 3" UNI Pod filter mounted to the end of the OEM intake plenum. I removed the OEM air-box, oil seperator/vent & coolant recovery tank from the bike. Then I placed the UNI over the opening at the air-box & intake plenum joint. I've only been able to ride around the block so far, but the bike runs like complete crap. It rides like the carb slides cannot respond to the throttle input fast enough.
I have just received a Dyno-Jet kit that rumor has it, is "supposed" to resolve the issues... We shall see.
The Tech at Dyno-Jet says NOT to remove the air-box for the kit to function correctly.
I have seen an Ascot that has a big K&N adapted to the end of the intake plenum. The owner says the Dyno-Jet kit fixed the jetting/carb issues & the bike runs great. That's what I'm hoping for. Now for some time to install the kit. It's one of those carb kits that requires the drilling of your carb parts. If I didn't have a parts bike as back up, I might be hesitant about taking a drill to my carbs. :-\
That's about all that I can tell you so far. The bike will not run correctly if you remove the air-box. Make sure you have the time & know how on jetting/recalibrating a carb before you jump into it.
Good luck
J.
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My first port of call will be to try and use the original filter on the end of the plenum in a home made sleeve of some kind, if necessary using an inlet hole the same size as that of the original box. I dont know if the volume of air in the original box has a bearing on performance, lets hope not. My thinking being original filter with an intake of the same size as the original box could possibly work? we will see.
Have you seen these guys? http://carbjetkits.com/honda-jet-kits/honda-500-cc-jet-kits/honda-vt500c-shadow-1983-1984-en.html
cheaper than most, a handy calculator and vt500 listed too, albeit a shadow. could be worth a look??
cheers
nev
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I have not seen that jet kit. Looks promising.
The Dyno-Jet kit has a few more pieces in it. If I recall correctly, there are two new springs, new needles, jets, a couple of drill bits, etc. It's a bit more extensive.
I don't really see a way to use the OEM filter without using the OEM box. You may have something there with the idea of trying to maintain the same size air intake, but then you won't be gaining any extra air flow. On my first VT Ascot, I had been given a spun aluminum velocity stack that just happened to fit snugly in the OEM air-box air inlet. I removed the 90 degree angle snorkle from the air-box & cut the base off of it so I would have the original round part that enters the air-box. I used that piece as a glorified grommet & then installed the velocity stack. I ended up cutting the bell shaped section from the velocity stack & inserted that into the grommet. I then radiused the freshly cut end to hold it into place. I hope this all makes sense.
I used to run K&N filters back then & installed the K&N into the air-box. Now the fresh air intake flowed through a marginally larger diameter opening that had a nice radiused entryway. I also removed the square screen located inside the air-box. This along with the MAC dual exhaust still allowed the bike to run with the stock jetting. I had the jetting changed by a shop that had a tail pipe sniffer. Unfortunately I do not recall what the final jetting specs were. I believe they simply went up 2 sizes on each main.
Good luck
J.