« Last post by FT500R on March 24, 2021, 10:14:41 am »
Already building the engine up again. Got the cylinder back with a fresh new bore and hone, immediately painted it with some heat resistant paint. Properly seated the valves, got the new crank in, new seals, used red RTV to give it a bit of contrast to the oil and gunk in the engine. (had some issues identifying the excess RTV from the PO in the engine. Gapped the pistonrings and installed the cylinder. New camchain, camchaintensioner spring and swapped out the clutch center for a second hand I had lying around. The old one had too much wear on the inside for my liking. Now waiting for the thread insert for my spark plug before I can reassemble the cylinder head.
« Last post by FT500R on March 11, 2021, 05:55:38 am »
I think I have found an error in both the Honda service manual as in the Honda FT500 Haynes Manual. The error is in Haynes chapter 8 page 7 regarding the service limits of the clutch guide.
The mentioned limit for the outer length is mentioned as 33.10 mm. Mine was a bit over 30mm and did not show any signs of wear. I've checked with multiple wreckers but all responses were that also on their guides the length was 30 something instead of 33.10.
Be mindful of this when you are checking your engine, don't go buying expensive parts when it is not necessary.
« Last post by FT500R on March 08, 2021, 03:41:16 am »
Hi Guys,
Made a wire diagram and color explanation. Helps in trouble shooting the wiring loom. Thinking about making a trouble shooting guide for the wiring too.
« Last post by FT500R on March 05, 2021, 03:50:58 am »
Got the whole engine apart and I am stripping the cases of the paint now. Had to unfortunately also replace the oil pomp as the rotor was very pitted (although all clearances were still fine) I finally got the last rockershaft dowel out. Ended up welding a small strip to the dowel, clamping the strip in a vice and gently tapping the headcover (with a piece of cardboard in between) this finally got the dowel out. I've collected a decent amount of rockers now... some very good... some very bad..
« Last post by FT500R on February 24, 2021, 02:27:15 am »
Since the small end of my crank was damaged I bought a second hand one via Ebay. Always a bit of a gamble but the one I received is in immaculate condition! Very happy with that. Continuing to strip the engine down to really get a proper overview of what I need to order. I also got my new piston in (.5 oversize) so can send the cylinder out for a bore and a hone.
« Last post by FT500R on February 18, 2021, 03:11:33 am »
Will try to weld a bolt or nut to the dowel. I only have a 220v flux core mig welder so hope I can get enough heat in the dowel to make something stick to it. I'll probably get a new dowel afterwards
« Last post by murdo on February 15, 2021, 03:38:47 pm »
When I have had trouble with the dowels I welded an extra piece of steel to the dowel so as to be able to get a better grip on it with a vice. Cut off and cleaned up the dowel before returning to valve cover.
« Last post by FT500R on February 15, 2021, 04:30:56 am »
And the saga continues. Cleaned up the inside of the head as much as possible and reground the valves. The (inner) valve springs are out of spec so I have to start searching for new ones there. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. I've used a copper wire wheel on some parts of the engine and it gets the paint of reasonably well. Decided that I will go for that look for the complete engine apart from the cilinder and head. I will not be able to get into the cooling fins so will paint those parts black. I am also struggling with the rockercover shaft dowel. I got 1 out using the 'yahoo' method with tapping a thread on it and using that to pull itself out. The other one stripped the newly made threads unfortunately. I then tried the 'haynes' method by grinding a slot and trying to tap it out but as you can see that only bend the dowel. Any thoughts or tips on this? I also checked all the headcover bolt holes and it looks like I have to helicoil almost all of them (already anticipated that) strangely enough 1 bolt was M8, 1 was M7 and the rest appears to be M6 (although some stripped). The M8 and M7 do not correspond to the expected M7 bolts though.