Author Topic: FT500 Vintage racer (Read 119610 times)

FT500R · « **Reply #25 on:** September 17, 2020, 10:06:17 am »

Got a new front fairing.
Made the fairing stay on the front already, have to tweak it a bit more but it is already pretty sturdy.
Will add some brackets to the sides to keep them in the correct position and from flapping around.
Also welded my linkpipe. Have to add a bracket to fix the linkpipe to the frame on the spot where the exhaust normally mounts and have to add a muffler hanger.

The windscreen on the pictures is one I had lying around. I will not use this one but it was more to get an idea of the looks.

hellblom · « **Reply #26 on:** September 21, 2020, 03:05:58 am »

What size tires do you have on this mr FT500?

FT500R · « **Reply #27 on:** September 21, 2020, 07:09:28 am »

110/70/17 front
140/70/17 rear

FT500R · « **Reply #28 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:01:50 am »

I've welded supports for the fairing so it is installed.
I made one support from the neck of the frame forward and 2 small tabs on the sides of the frame.

My welding isn't great but it's solid and when I will prepare for final painting of the frame I can grind the ugly bits down a bit.

I am very satisfied with the position and sturdiness of the fairing. It really hugs the bike nice and tight.

murdo · « **Reply #29 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:08:45 am »

Looking good.

hellblom · « **Reply #30 on:** September 28, 2020, 02:00:07 pm »

Well on the way! Looks good.

FT500R · « **Reply #31 on:** October 13, 2020, 03:11:29 am »

Refurbished the front forks this weekend.
Not the first one I did and since this is not a cartridge style fork it was really easy.
Replaced all the seals and slider bushings as the seals were leaking and the bushings completely worn.
I removed the whole anti-dive system as this will lockup the forks when braking on a bumpy road (not something you want when riding on street circuits)

Also drilled some extra holes in the damping rods to prepare for cartridge emulators. I have gone for the YSS PD valves instead of the more well known racetech gold valves. Primarily because the YSS are actually obtainable in Europe and they are a lot cheaper.
I'll be running 15wt fork oil and will have to shorten the spring or the spacer to accomodate for the PD valve. Will post more on that whenever I get them.

The postal company has lost my package with the valves though but at least everything is prepared and they should be a quick drop in.

FT500R · « **Reply #32 on:** October 16, 2020, 03:07:21 pm »

Fully welded the exhaust and slapped some cheap heat resistant paint on it. (I also drilled some holes in the header to weld in the inner tubes that got loose, seems to have worked)
After that I got some new sticky stuff for the FT.
I went with Bridgestone RS10s. Read a lot of good reviews about them, they were pretty affordable and were available as a set in the sizes I wanted. Really happy with them. I got 110/70/17 for the front and 140/70/17 for the rear.

For the front forks I came across these things:

These fit on the forks instead of the current caps. I would loose the air valves and with that the possibility to pressurize the forks but would gain pre-load adjustment. Anyone any experience with something similar?

murdo · « **Reply #33 on:** October 16, 2020, 04:15:30 pm »

I used the adjustable top caps on one of my CBR250's and found they made a noticable difference.

FT500R · « **Reply #34 on:** October 26, 2020, 11:25:06 am »

Got the PD-valves in the mail this weekend and installed them.
Really clever little things.
You put them in your forks between the damper rod and the spring.
The spring preload of the little valve controlles the amount of oil that can flow when the forks compress, with that it controlles the compression damping.
Rebound is still controlled with the oil viscoscity.
I've set the valves on 3 turns preload (out of 7) for now. The forks still feel a bit soft but this could also be due to the relatively weak standard fork springs.
I had to shorten the fork spacer with 14mm (thickness of the PD-valves) to keep normal pre-load on the fork springs.
I'll keep them like this for now, changing the pre-load on the PD-valves is relatively easy so I can dail them in further when I get to test ride the bike a bit (you do have to 'open up' the forks by removing the top cap, spacer and springs).

patrino · « **Reply #35 on:** November 04, 2020, 06:55:44 pm »

Looking good - thanks for the update!

I reckon you'll like the cartridge emulators. I'm a big fan - for the last ten years or so I've been running them (RaceTech's version) in all my vintage bikes.

You may already have figured this, but in case you need to adjust the emulators, a tool like this is helpful to grab them from the top of the damping rod: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GrabEasy-24-in-Flexible-4-Claw-Pick-Up-Tool-Jewelry-Retriever-Clog-Remover-Drain-Snake-in-Chrome-PF0401/202505170

FT500R · « **Reply #36 on:** November 06, 2020, 04:28:46 am »

Thanks.
I indeed used a similar tool. Works like a charm and you don't have to drop the valves in or turn the forks upside down to get them out.

I just ordered new shocks and progressive fork springs so the whole suspension should be sorted.

FT500R · « **Reply #37 on:** November 12, 2020, 08:05:05 am »

Christmas was early this year (or Sinterklaas which we celebrate in the Netherlands).
Just got my Hagon shocks and fork springs.
I went to the importer of Hagon shocks here in the Netherlands to discuss which type would be best for my situation and instead of the more expensive adjustable 2810 series they actually recommended the 'standard' shocks as these have progressive damping.
This progressive damping various according to the sharpness of the shocks and with that would be more optimal than a set damping that will always dampen the same way.
I did get springs specifically for my own weight, the bike and the racing I will be doing with it.
Together with the progressive fork springs and the YSS PD-valves this should give a much improved ride.

Hope to install everything this weekend.

FT500R · « **Reply #38 on:** November 15, 2020, 05:06:52 am »

When racing I have to remove the side and center stand, which means that parking the bike is a bit difficult.
To make it a lot easier to prop the bike up I welded 2 long nuts on the rear swing arm to fit paddock stand bobbins.

The Hagon shocks I bought are a bit longer than the orignals (was recommended this by someone who races FT500s). The bike looks pretty sweet with the shocks installed.
I also made a muffler support from a strip of aluminium. Might add some speedholes in it to add lightness

FT500R · « **Reply #39 on:** November 17, 2020, 09:46:43 am »

Fitted the hagon progressive fork springs today.
These replace the original spring, washer and spacer.
Problem was that I had shortened the spacer to make room for the PD-valves (about 20mm).
I can't just shorten the progressive springs so I fitted them as is, I do have quite a lot of spring pre-load now (about 37mm) but statically the forks feel great and not harsh at all.

hellblom · « **Reply #40 on:** November 22, 2020, 12:44:02 pm »

Nice, which model of the progressive springs was it?

FT500R · « **Reply #41 on:** November 29, 2020, 02:10:39 pm »

Yesterday it was time for spaghetti!
Stripped the wiring harness and removed everything I did not need anymore (blinkers, clutch/neutral start safety etc). I got the extra wires out by depinning the plugs instead of cutting the wires. Everything for now can still be put back to stock (not that I intend to ever go back to stock

)
Still kept the wiring for the headlight in for now and kept some extra grounds and + wires. Can always remove them later.

I also removed, disassembled and fully cleaned the carb (again) and fitted a spare windscreen I had lying around. It was an old torn windscreen that did not fit this bike at all. I cut it up fust before the tear, made it to size and cut some holes. Will do for now.

@Hellblom I will check the partnumber for you later.

FT500R · « **Reply #42 on:** December 17, 2020, 03:52:07 am »

@hellblom. Partnumber is 500-173-00 according to the box.

I made some progress on the fiberglass seat but due to a hack my company blocked a lot of websites (I only have a work laptop) uploading pictures from my phone doesn't work so will have to figure something out before I can do another update on the progress. Doesn't matter too much as progress will be a bit slower since I am moving next month, a lot of time will go into that before I can resume work on the bikes.

hellblom · « **Reply #43 on:** December 29, 2020, 02:46:41 pm »

Thanks! I hope you move to a place with a garage

FT500R · « **Reply #44 on:** December 29, 2020, 04:37:04 pm »

Unfortunately no garage. A small shed that is too small to really work on the bike in, but at least I will have power and a place of my own. I do have enough space to build a carport or maybe even a garage but I would have to check with the municipality if that is allowed (strict rules on that here). It will be a big step forward from my current situation anyway.

FT500R · « **Reply #45 on:** January 25, 2021, 07:51:22 am »

Completely moved now and very happen with my new little shed.
I thought I would have a lot less room but actually I am able to fit both FTs inside where before I could only fit 1.

Now both bikes are inside I can start freshing up the engine of the race FT.

I started draining the oil and there was a lot of sludge in there, even though I renewed the oil 2 months ago and the bike didn't run in between. I think some rain water leaked in the breather while the bike was outside.

Half an hour later I had the engine out.
Next step is to cover all openings and power wash the engine. When it is clean I'll probably whip up a small engine stand to have the engine more stable and upright.

hellblom · « **Reply #46 on:** January 26, 2021, 08:01:49 am »

Cozy shed you got!

murdo · « **Reply #47 on:** January 26, 2021, 07:02:51 pm »

Very nice.

FT500R · « **Reply #48 on:** January 29, 2021, 05:41:42 am »

I power washed the engine and started taking it apart to freshen it up.

I found a lot of non- standard bolts and RTV which is never a good sign. Someone has been in this engine before and he/she was not gentle.
Will probably have to helicoil every headcover bolt (standard practice with the FT anyway) and replace all of those bolts as the threads have gone on those too.
Unfortunately the rockerarms have completely worn so I will have to replace those. I was afraid the cam was a goner too but after comparing it with a spare one, which I know is good, it turns out this one is not that bad either. After measuring the camshaft journals and even the lobe height are well within spec.
The camchaintensioner bolt is loose but won't come out so I suspect the same problem one of the other members of the ascot facebook board had. I also discovered that the 2 head nuts on the underside of the head are missing... Pretty amazing what you find on a 150 euro 40 year old bike

FT500R · « **Reply #49 on:** January 30, 2021, 03:01:24 pm »

Managed to get the camchaintensioner bolt that was stripped out by prying a flathead screwdriver between the camchaintensioner and the cilinder head on the inside. This put enough pressure on the bolt for the threads to bite and to screw out.
Removing the head was peanuts afterwards (helps that the lower two head nuts were missing.)
The valves and piston are not completely covered in carbon build up which is a good thing. A not so good thing is the piece of helicoil sticking out of the sparkplug hole.
The used head gasket is aftermarket so again an indication someone messed with the bike before (and did not do a good job).

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Author Topic: FT500 Vintage racer (Read 119610 times)