Author Topic: Testing Starter relay - Discrepancy in the manual ? Alternative part ?  (Read 964 times)


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Finally got to ride my 82 FT500.  It started very easily with a few rolls down the drive way to bump it.   Anyway, it's the only way I can start the bike.  Starter does not engage.  You can hear clicks when you hit the start button.  Nothing at the starter.

I tested the solenoid (the one closest to the actual starter) - it works.  It was very clean, but I cleaned, checked and tested it anyway. (Tested using procedure in the manual)
I tested the relay under the seat.  It is also functioning properly.
The starter relay switch appears to be the culprit.  The fuse in it tests good.  When I check for continuity as directed by the manual, the switch is BAD.

*BUT, according to the drawing in the manual I think there may be a mistake ?    See below - It shows that you connect the prong Y/R to the + side of a 12v battery and the Y/Black to the - side.  The drawing has them reversed from what is coming out of the actual wiring harness.  I do not think the harness has been altered, but anything is possible over 35 years.   I hooked it up according to the photo before I noticed that the drawing was different from what I actually have.

**  I have not tried jumping across the posts of the Starter Relay since there seem to be 5000 relays etc.    That wouldn't hurt anything would it ?    That way I would know very quickly if that was my problem correct ?

Could that cause a bad test or fry the relay ?   Not able to find a replacement (35850-KE5-000)

Is there a known substitute relay switch that I could use ?   Aren't they all pretty much the same ?

The wiring diagram doesn't show definitively the order of the prongs in the 4 pin connector.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2017, 05:46:27 am by greenjeans »


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A screwdriver across the big posts of the starter relay will tell if the starter motor is going to work. Should not hurt it as that is what it does anyway.


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Yep, I know that trick.  I tested the solenoid according to the manual (see pic) and it doesn't work.  Got a replacement (cheapo). And for giggles, I hooked it up to test and it actually made an audible click.  But, since I'm a curios dummy, I reversed the hook up just to see if it would have any effect.  Well now, the new solenoid tests bad.   

I was always under the impression that those 2 wires wouldn't matter?

Any ideas?   I guess it IS possible that the harness cloud have had a new 4-pin connector on there, but the bike seems clean enough that I doubt that.

Is the manual correct?   Does the order in which those 2 (yellow/red & yellow/bulk) wires connect even matter?


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  • Humboldt, AZ USA
I checked my bike, and the manual is indeed incorrect. It shouldn't make any difference which yellow coil wire is connected to the battery+ for the test, as long as the switch isn't connected to the harness. You should be able to measure the coil resistance across the yellow wires; I don't see it listed in the manual, but I would expect about 4 ohms? Does the replacement have the fuse holder/plug attached, or is it like a 750 with two loose wires?